Thursday, October 4, 2012

Day 154: Adrenaline pumping at Almaty Airport!! - Almaty, Kazakhstan


(Him: Charlie)
As much as we want to cross the border by land, the “sacred” National Day holiday in China just would let us. Who closes their land border for 7 days on a holiday? Oh well, so we had to fly if we want to make it to Cheng Du by Oct 7. Ka-ching!!!

Normally, I wouldn’t write about the mundane border crossing, especially the boring custom passing at airport, but this one is different. It’s a crazy one – it’s one that almost got our hearts stopped and it’s one that got our hair raised… it’s one that got me even more broke! Fuck!!

Apparently, according to the Kazakh law, a tourist has to register at the local immigration police if he/she intends to stay within the country for more than 5 days! (Yea, who does that on top of a stupid visa??) So the ignorant Charlie and Joanna, who haven’t seen anything like that before, didn’t realize the seriousness of this requirement, and continued on with the visits in the country.

On day 7, when we came face to face with the passport control at Almaty Airport, disaster landed upon us!!! At first, the officer said we couldn’t board our flight because we had to go to the city the next day to register. This almost gave me a heart attack – the images of us running around switching flights and re-organizing everything came to mind. At this point, we would be happy to just pay the fine and leave the country. And then, the officer told us the bank is close now (9pm), and we would still have to pay the day after. Shit! The same images of “chicken-running-around-with-heads-cut-off” came to mind again… “shit, shit, shit” we thought, but “please, please, please!” we begged!

AND THEN, after some panicking on our end and a couple of phone calls on the other end, the officer offered a solution – a officer’s “friend” could pay the fine for us tomorrow for a “fee” of 4000 Tenge (about $30US). With the fine at a hefty $120US, it means we have to cough up $300US to get out of the country.

At this point, what choice do we have? Being able to catch our flight is definitely more important than the $300US! So we agreed, and we couldn’t care less if the process is even legitimate – we were told that we had to “pay” the fine discreetly by passing over the money folded in our passport! So we moved on with the security, and handed over our money filled passport as instructed, and halleluiah, safely boarded our flight. Voila and Ka-Ching!
We can’t be sure whether the officers took the fine as pocket money or, maybe he was really doing us a favour and the money really went to the government as a fine. Either way, there goes our $300US, and there goes our expensive lesson learned from this bureaucratic country! What a night!!


(Renown Turkistan Mausoleum, Turkistan, Kazakhstan)

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